Ike Behar's How To:
Collars and Cuffs
Like tie knots, there are many different cuff and collar
styles, each of which can subtly change the tone of your entire ensemble. Many
men only know one or two collar styles, and are unaware of what occasions call
for what type of collar or cuff. While cuff and collar styles might seem
irrelevant, consider that at best the right cuff and collar choice can make the
right outfit perfect, while at worst the wrong collar choice can make even the
finest outfit look sloppy and awkward.
The Cuffs
There are two primary cuff styles you need to know: the
French cuff and the barrel cuff. The French cuff is considered the fancier
option and is usually reserved for special occasions that require dressier
attire. French cuffs are twice as long as ordinary cuffs, so that they can be
folded back on themselves and clasped with cufflinks. Many men like the added
class that a French cuff and nice pair of cufflinks adds to an outfit, however
it is best to save them for important business meetings, formal events, and
other circumstances that require a dressier look (but remember there are
exceptions to every rule).
The most commonly worn cuff style is the barrel cuff. They
can be worn with a dressy outfit, a casual outfit, and everything in between. The
barrel cuff is unfolded, usually fastened with a button, and makes the wrist
appear rounder than a French cuff.
It can be worn buttoned for a dressier more formal look, for those who
find a French cuff too cumbersome or ornate, or it can be unbuttoned and rolled
to the forearm for a stylish casual look. Many men often choose to purchase
shirts with barrel cuffs because of their versatility, especially those who
like to where the same fine shirt on both casual and formal occasions. Whatever
your motive you can almost never go wrong with a barrel cuff.
The Collar
While there are too many collar styles to name and
describe here, there are five basic collar styles every man should familiarize
himself with: the button down, the hidden button down, the medium spread, the
cut-away spread, and the point. While it depends on the man, it is generally a
good idea to have multiple shirts with different collar styles to ensure that
you always have the best collar for every occasion. Learning what collar style works
best with each occasion can be fairly simple, and can add a subtle new depth to
any wardrobe.
BUTTON DOWN
The button down collar is widely considered the most
casual, and traditionally is not worn with a formal suit or tie, though not all
men agree. Originally, conceived for polo players who wanted to keep their
collars in place during play, the button down collar has become fairly popular
as a slightly more casual alternative to the traditional dress shirt. It is
intended to be worn without a tie, however recently, more and more men are
choosing to wear button down collars with a nice suit and tie to achieve a look
that is still dressy but slightly more relaxed, or with the collar and points
unbuttoned for an even more casual and stylish look. We do, however, recommend avoiding button down collars on strictly
formal occasions (as always, it is important to use your best judgment as to
what the appropriate level of dress is for a given event).
HIDDEN BUTTON DOWN
For those who like the benefits of the button down collar,
but require more flexibility, a hidden button down is often a good option. The
hidden button down, as the name implies, has points that attach to the shirt
using buttons that are hidden beneath the points. Though the hidden button down
collar can be worn with a tie or in more formal situations than the pure button
down, it is still best saved for less formal occasions.
MEDIUM SPREAD
CUT AWAY SPREAD
In contrast to the button down collars, spread collars
are generally considered a more dressy option. Spread collars are called such
because of the larger distance between the collars points as compared to other
collars, and therefore are ideally worn with wide tie knots, such as the
full-windsor. The medium spread and cut-away spread collars differ only in a
matter of degree of the spread, and can be worn almost interchangeably, though
remember wider tie knots look better with a larger spread. While, some men
choose to wear spread collar shirts with the collar unbuttoned and without a
tie, this look is best served with a traditional point collar.
POINT
The point collar is by far the most versatile of all
collar styles. The point collar can be worn with just about any tie or tie knot
or with the collar unbuttoned and open. It can be worn with a formal suit or a
pair of jeans. Because standard point collars are so versatile it is a good
idea to purchase multiples, while many men with a limited wardrobe budget
choose to buy point collars exclusively.
While certain collar and cuff styles work better with
different styles, diversity in ones wardrobe is essential. Showing up to an
important meeting in a spread collar shirt with a wide knot tie one day, while
showing up at the company barbeque in a open button-down collar shirt and jeans
the next, displays your fine shirts as they were intended while reminding
everyone that you understand style, class, and perfection.
Find shirts of all styles, including Custom Express
Originals, at ikebeharonline.com
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