Charleston, South Carolina

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Thursday, March 14, 2013

The Cuff and The Collar.


Ike Behar's How To:
Collars and Cuffs

Like tie knots, there are many different cuff and collar styles, each of which can subtly change the tone of your entire ensemble. Many men only know one or two collar styles, and are unaware of what occasions call for what type of collar or cuff. While cuff and collar styles might seem irrelevant, consider that at best the right cuff and collar choice can make the right outfit perfect, while at worst the wrong collar choice can make even the finest outfit look sloppy and awkward.
The Cuffs
There are two primary cuff styles you need to know: the French cuff and the barrel cuff. The French cuff is considered the fancier option and is usually reserved for special occasions that require dressier attire. French cuffs are twice as long as ordinary cuffs, so that they can be folded back on themselves and clasped with cufflinks. Many men like the added class that a French cuff and nice pair of cufflinks adds to an outfit, however it is best to save them for important business meetings, formal events, and other circumstances that require a dressier look (but remember there are exceptions to every rule).
The most commonly worn cuff style is the barrel cuff. They can be worn with a dressy outfit, a casual outfit, and everything in between. The barrel cuff is unfolded, usually fastened with a button, and makes the wrist appear rounder than a French cuff.  It can be worn buttoned for a dressier more formal look, for those who find a French cuff too cumbersome or ornate, or it can be unbuttoned and rolled to the forearm for a stylish casual look. Many men often choose to purchase shirts with barrel cuffs because of their versatility, especially those who like to where the same fine shirt on both casual and formal occasions. Whatever your motive you can almost never go wrong with a barrel cuff.
The Collar
While there are too many collar styles to name and describe here, there are five basic collar styles every man should familiarize himself with: the button down, the hidden button down, the medium spread, the cut-away spread, and the point. While it depends on the man, it is generally a good idea to have multiple shirts with different collar styles to ensure that you always have the best collar for every occasion. Learning what collar style works best with each occasion can be fairly simple, and can add a subtle new depth to any wardrobe.

BUTTON DOWN 

The button down collar is widely considered the most casual, and traditionally is not worn with a formal suit or tie, though not all men agree. Originally, conceived for polo players who wanted to keep their collars in place during play, the button down collar has become fairly popular as a slightly more casual alternative to the traditional dress shirt. It is intended to be worn without a tie, however recently, more and more men are choosing to wear button down collars with a nice suit and tie to achieve a look that is still dressy but slightly more relaxed, or with the collar and points unbuttoned for an even more casual and stylish look. We do, however, recommend avoiding button down collars on strictly formal occasions (as always, it is important to use your best judgment as to what the appropriate level of dress is for a given event).

HIDDEN BUTTON DOWN

For those who like the benefits of the button down collar, but require more flexibility, a hidden button down is often a good option. The hidden button down, as the name implies, has points that attach to the shirt using buttons that are hidden beneath the points. Though the hidden button down collar can be worn with a tie or in more formal situations than the pure button down, it is still best saved for less formal occasions.

MEDIUM SPREAD

CUT AWAY SPREAD

In contrast to the button down collars, spread collars are generally considered a more dressy option. Spread collars are called such because of the larger distance between the collars points as compared to other collars, and therefore are ideally worn with wide tie knots, such as the full-windsor. The medium spread and cut-away spread collars differ only in a matter of degree of the spread, and can be worn almost interchangeably, though remember wider tie knots look better with a larger spread. While, some men choose to wear spread collar shirts with the collar unbuttoned and without a tie, this look is best served with a traditional point collar.

POINT

The point collar is by far the most versatile of all collar styles. The point collar can be worn with just about any tie or tie knot or with the collar unbuttoned and open. It can be worn with a formal suit or a pair of jeans. Because standard point collars are so versatile it is a good idea to purchase multiples, while many men with a limited wardrobe budget choose to buy point collars exclusively.
While certain collar and cuff styles work better with different styles, diversity in ones wardrobe is essential. Showing up to an important meeting in a spread collar shirt with a wide knot tie one day, while showing up at the company barbeque in a open button-down collar shirt and jeans the next, displays your fine shirts as they were intended while reminding everyone that you understand style, class, and perfection.
Find shirts of all styles, including Custom Express Originals, at ikebeharonline.com

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